Bhairawa or Bust

Emotional farewells with my neighbourhood soccer players complete, the five of us Rupandehi pioneer volunteers (Wally, Akke Antje, Sandy, Aniceto and I – along with Gopal from the VSO Nepal program office) set off from Kathmandu on our journey to Bhairawa. With the mini-bus loaded past the rafters – can you believe they tried (but failed) to pack the purple tool kit on the roof Alex – we were all delighted to see the dusty potholed roads of Kathmandu fade into the distance. Within an hour the landscape had transformed into some of the most spectacular scenery I have ever seen (still not in the same league as the winter wonderland of Yellowstone though Gwen). Unfortunately, the photos do not do the countryside justice because they are taken through the window of the moving vehicle.

There are some fairly narrow roads where traffic has to back up to allow the vehicle travelling on the opposite side of the road to manoeuvre the tight corners (like the ones you lay your motorcycle into at 200ks Andy). However, the excitement of finally arriving in ‘our town’ overrode any fear of tipping over the edge – well not really but I’ll say that just so you can all stop worrying. Let’s just say it was an adventurous journey with extremely competent drivers (almost similar to you calibre Sir Geoffrey!!!!!!!!!).

We saw many amazing little villages carved into the sides of the mountains and were fascinated at how they could stay balanced there.......and thinking perhaps they won’t - long term. It’s fascinating how people just get about their business in such harsh conditions with little fuss and hardly notice the traffic until we stop and the ‘bideshis’ file in to the restaurant to take daal baht (yes Angi, more daal baht ). Delicious as it may be, there is always a moment of hesitation- after wiping the fly-blown plates and cutlery –just what price (and I’m not meaning rupees) might be paid for eating this tasty blend of rice, vegies and lentils...

We knew the trip was coming to an end (after around eight hours) when we could no longer see the hills. Despite our romantic postcard images of Nepal with the snow-capped mountains, Bhairawa is nothing like those images. Our town is located in the terai – the flatlands in the south of Nepal just six kilometres from the Indian border. There are apparently some beautiful areas in the terai. I’m wish I could report that Bhairawa is one of them but sadly is most certainly is not. I think we all had images of a quiet country village with some shrubbery, clear blue sky and fresh air. I’m confident my wonderful team buddies will be happy with me sharing (because we have all ‘admitted’ to our dismay as the bus slowed) we all had the same thought ‘please don’t let this be Bhairawa’. Bhairawa is in some respects a mini-version of Kathmandu. The traffic on the main road is manic (more work here for you and your team Inspector Neil), the air is polluted from the constant procession of buses and trucks travelling to and from India and the town is littered with rubbish (perhaps not quite as seriously as Kathmandu) and it stinks – not the whole town, just most of it (can you imagine with my sensitive nose Jordan and Hunk – absolute torture). HOWEVER, there a many, many less feral dogs YAHOO!!!!!!!!!!!!! And the town is generally quiet at night.

The day we arrived it was around 40 degrees and the temperature has fluctuated between 35 and 45 over the past few weeks. (I know you’re saying ‘what a wimp’ Smiley but you wait –this is hotter than the Desh........even hotter than hell, so we’ve been told by someone who I’m sure has already been there!!!!). We were fortunate to be accommodated in a hotel with air-conditioning (which actually works much more efficiently than that ‘state of the art’ piece of cr## in the AH&A Secretariat – perhaps it would more cost effective to have that unit in the office successfully repaired if we sent a technician from Nepal – send me the specs Adrian and I’ll make some enquiries!!!!!!!!!!). Anyway, to cut a long story short (yeah, as if that’s ever going to happen – I hear you Poddies) Wally and I are still waiting for our flats to be complete (around three weeks – so translated into Nepali time that should be just as we are packing up to leave) so we are still living out of suitcases (mine still smelling like a beautiful garden thanx Annie and Jo) in the hotel. Aniceto has taken up residence in a very comfie bungalow in the beautiful presbytery grounds at the Catholic Church surrounded by a magnificent garden (complete with snakes, frogs, mongoose and fabulous birds – which reminds me thanx Dianne for TLC for me and my plants). This little oasis is where we now hold happy hour every Friday arvo with Father Sylvester and the sensational sisters from the convent just across the way. So if that’s the only Aussie suggestion that is successful during this post, I feel like I have made a significant contribution to the development of Nepal, because it is a VERY happy hour or three. Waltergator, can you send me my five hundred takka from the Nutella jar – that’s worth a fortune here............just kidding you hold on to it for your next trip to Bangladesh buddy. Akke Antje and Sandy are sharing a beaut cottage style house a little out of the main town area – the surrounding fields actually make you feel like you are in the countryside. They’ve worked sooooooooooo hard in the stinking heat to get set up and we are going to have a house warming in a couple of weeks.

With regard to our project we have made some major progress with almost having the twelve schools we will be working with finalised.............we’re just up to the third list now – so sometime in the next few months we should be on track. For three days in a row, we bicycled to the schools we thought we would be working with - some of which were approximately 20 kilometres round trip. No great challenge for us HI girls hey Annie, Sandy, Debra, Janene, Jo, Fran and Kathy – except for those temperatures mentioned above.................we were all so sunburnt and despite the heat would have luuuuuuuuuved the coffee and chat with both HIers and GOWers. (I have to stop torturing myself, I just finished Fran’s last coffee bag the other day – I managed two cups out of each one – the coffee here is like muddy water – geez, maybe it is actually muddy water). But I do have the fanciest coasters for my cup to sit on, so the coffee tastes better – with thanx Glor. I’ve also taken up drinking lassi, after my fab friend Paul (the truck hitting survivor Paul in India) described in mouth-watering detail his experiences with lassis – so it will be his fault when I come home looking like a sumo wrestler.

Oh, I just realised I got off the subject of work. Perhaps that’s because we are not settled in to a routine or an office yet and with the lack of co-operation from the responsible parties, it’s unlikely to happen before the next World Cup is played. So I am going to set up my office at home (hopefully before the next World Cup) and do all my admin from there and join the teachers in their field work. It was super spending time with the teachers and the kids. They were all sooooooo happy to see us. Unlike.....................Oops best not go there – private email stuff to you all!!!!!!!!!!!!!

We are starting to make some great friends and acquaintances in the town and the guys in the hotel are looking after us so well. Nothing is too much trouble and they have helped us with getting to know our way around, how to bargain and making sure we are safe. The local shop keepers greet us enthusiastically and we are all feeling a little more ‘connected’ to this unattractive town.

Oh and before I go, Miracles happen, THERE IS A POOL IN BHAIRAWA, well only a 20km ride down the road on a 50 year old rusty bus carrying three times as many passengers as it should, in the 45 degree heat, unmentionable smells aboard included free of charge. We swam in the luke warm water for hours - BLISS. I am now the unofficial Nepali freestyle champion. And thanks to Midgie and Jackie my bathers (and some other ‘did I really need to pack that stuffs’) are on the way direct from the FM bag.

I’m trying to get this posted while I have reasonable access to the net so please excuse typos, offensive cynicisms and anything that doesn’t make sense.

Stay well and kushi lago my wonderful friends.

Namaste and hugs from Kathmandu.

Marguerite

PS – You must try to stay interested in my blog – my next one is about a chance ‘brush’ with the most famous comedians in Nepali.............what an amazing day!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm Going to Kathmandu Take II

I’ve had a diverse range of responses regarding my decision to return to Nepal, but the majority are summed up in one line from one of my favourite singers ‘I was stunned but not surprised – if you know what I mean’. And I absolutely know what you mean my wonderful Poddie Jane – because that’s fairly much how I felt. I want to add again that the support you have all offered me has been overwhelming and I am very grateful.

Jordan and Bruce took me to the airport – somewhat a case of déjà vu. Except this time I had only one twelve kilo overweight suitcase (the $980 bag is still safely in the care of Midgie and Jackie and has become affectionately – or not – known as the f**king Melbourne bag). As I began my rehearsed plea with the wonderful check-in chick at Qantas, she commented on my fabulous perfume...........I digressed from my begging for excess luggage fee waiver to tell her the story (which some of you already know) about how my ex-husband (who was, as we were speaking, parking the car and had come to farewell me for the second time – she joked ‘is that because he wants to make sure you actually leave’ and we all laughed) bought this perfume by mistake some fifteen years ago and, despite me chastising him for being so absent minded, I received so many compliments I have been buying it ever since. She made a note that it is Knowing by Estee Lauder and said she will be asking for it for her next gift. I realised I was half way through my plea and she had already weighed my luggage, tagged it with a Priority Business Class label and booked it via international link through Melbourne, Bangkok and onto Kathmandu. I would only have to book my seat with Thai for the international flights when I got to Melbourne. She also gave me a priority pass to go through the express lane in customs in Melbourne. Jordan and I looked at each other with a mixture of relief, joy and disbelief thanked the awesome luvy profusely and promised to buy her some Knowing on my way back to Australia in 2012. As we were celebrating Bruce approached to see what all the commotion was about and I told him the perfume story and he politely said to this glorious girl ‘does that help you understand why I have come to make sure she leaves’....... So there was a lot of light heartedness to take the edge of what had been a few very arduous weeks. Nevertheless, saying farewell to loved ones, especially a remarkable son and the extraordinarily generous Hunk, was always going to be emotional – and it was!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Not having to collect my luggage in Melbourne was such a relief and I had my boarding pass within minutes and was checked through security and customs in plenty of time to have a decent coffee – unfortunately no great GOW or HI buddy company though – before we boarded for Bangkok. I was in such good spirits, I wasn’t the slightest bit concerned if there was a dear old lady in my seat and was almost tempted to line-dance in the aisles when I realised that the plane was only half full and I had a whole row of seats to myself. By this time it was midnight and as soon as the aircraft lights were dimmed, I stretched out over the three seats and slept for four hours. Also managed to watch a really great chick flick – I just hope I can remember the name of it before the end of this chat so you can go and see it Dawnie.

The stop-over in Bangkok was only four hours and I spent one and a half of those in the massage spa (forever grateful for that hint Tuula). Oh and I have to say, I think I single-handedly changed the attitude of the security officers in Bangkok airport. You may remember last time I checked through security in Bangkok, one of the female officers was so rude to me, I brought her brusqueness to the attention of one of the supervisors. Well this time I swear they have all been to happy face tutoring and were sooooooooooooooo polite I thought I was in a different airport. Another decent cup of coffee (still alas no GOW or HI company) and it was time to board for the Kat........ Bonus, this big bird was only half full too – another whole row to myself – a half decent pasta meal (not even close to the exquisite cuisine of Dr Paul, Mon Ami or Dawnie though) another snooze, time to refresh the ‘paint job’ (yeah! you and me Alex) and three and a half hours later, breathtaking views of the Himalayas and touchdown Kathmandu.

The ‘other time’ I arrived in Kathmandu it took about an hour and a half for my suitcase to arrive on the carousel. This time it was there within twenty minutes, being checked over by a huge Alsatian drug-detector. When the guard looked at my forlorn expression, (memories of Dhaka airport come to mind Smiley Sis) I wanted to explain to him that it wasn’t because I was concerned about the dog finding drugs or prohibited goods in my bag, but that I am actually terrified of dogs................(I promise I’ll go for therapy Midgie and ‘Arraine). The last time a four legged drug detector – a beagle of all creatures – bailed me up with my bag (at Melbourne airport) it was because I had a half eaten toasted cheese sandwich in one of the secret pockets. Thank goodness he found it; otherwise it could have still been there.

VSO staff had arranged for a taxi to collect me and transport me to the Annual Volunteer Conference being held at Godavari Village about a one hour drive from Kathmandu. It is in a picturesque, peaceful and unpolluted valley (see the piccies) and was such a pleasant way to ease back into Nepal. The grounds and gardens are magnificent – and I couldn’t help but think of my beloved Lucie, Gerdie, Gloria, Lynne, Dianne, Dolores and all my other keen gardening friends. The conference was suitably low-key and a great opportunity to re-acquaint with my group (my super friend Wally had made me a grand welcome back sign) and also to get to know the other volunteers who have been in Nepal for varying lengths of time, with fascinating stories to tell (yes my Poddies, I did let them get a word in) and extraordinary experiences and skills to share. On the last night we had a fun party and while Tiffany (from the UK) won the talent contest with her sensational belly-dancing, the National Capital Bootscooters were well-represented (in my opinion!!!!!!!!!!!!).

On Thursday, although we thought we were going to Pokhara for a meeting among all the education volunteers, we instead returned to Kathmandu because it was more convenient for all the participants. It was another valuable opportunity to share skills and learn so much from a group of highly professional and talented educators. We also gained further information about the process for our very exciting (if somewhat ambitious or daunting) project. Meanwhile, in the company of friends, particularly Sandy and Wally, I have spent a little more time exploring the previously dreaded Kathmandu and again doing my bit to assist with the tragic state of the economy. I think it is a tad cleaner (somebody must have shipped in a considerable number of rubber gloves Gladdie)............and the city seems a little (just a little) less polluted and the traffic more organised – did you send some of your guys over here Sir Geoffrey and Inspector Neil. When Sandy and I walked through Durbar Square the other day I actually enjoyed it more for what it is – amazing, run-down maybe, but nonetheless amazing architecture. The feral dogs are still enjoying running the show but I’m happy to say I am bed-bug bite free. And I have resolved my issues with the ‘powers that be’.

I would be bullshipping (nothing unusual.......... I hear you Adrian) if I said I wasn’t just a smidgen nervous about returning to Nepal. This is a challenging post, however, I have returned with renewed vigour and know that with all your support and encouragement we will make this a successful ‘mission’ (if you choose to accept it – for the winning piece of pie, what is that quote from Waltergator?) . On Wednesday we (the Rupandehi cluster education volunteers) leave for Bhairawa. We are all very excited to be heading off to do the job we came here to do. At the risk of repeating myself – bring it on!!!!!!!!!!! I look forward to sharing the next chapter with you. Thank you all again for your TLC.

Stay well and kushi lago my wonderful friends.

Namaste and hugs from Kathmandu.

Marguerite

PS Beautiful Ali – I have shared (under threat of a fate worse than death if they don’t return it to me) Sky Burial with several of the other volunteers and they luv the book. Humungus thanx again for such a great pressie.

PPS Annie and Jo – I am still living out of my suitcase so you know I am reminded of you every day – the smelly treats are fabulous.............Fran, I am sooooooooooooo enjoying the coffee bags - can you believe I get two cups out of each bag – fabulous........and I place my cuppa each morning on the most exquisite coasters in Nepal Glor.............Sandy and Janene the flags are still keeping me flying high......