Our Fortunate 'Brush' With Fame and Fortune

It happened by sheer coincidence really. Wally and I had just returned to the hotel from our Friday evening happy hour in the gardens of the Catholic Presbytery. Aniceto (the only male member of our team here) is living in a bungalow in the grounds of the Church so we have a residential claim to the garden. Happy hour is actually the social highlight of our week – we take a few beers, juice, nibblies and laughter to the presbytery and Father Sylvester and the Sisters from the adjoining convent join us for some ‘gossip’ and merriment. Sister is convinced life would be a whole lot better for this recovering Catholic if only I would return to mass while Father Sylvester is much more realistic(perhaps he thinks salvation for this Aussie involves more than attending mass)..............they are great fun and so interesting with tales of their travels, adventures and experiences. And they are genuinely interested in Akke Antje, Sandy, Aniceto, Wally and I – our joys and our woes are spoken of freely and with respect at this important weekly occasion.

Anyway, back to the hotel where Wally and I are NOT happy to still be living in our rooms out of our suitcases. (Mind you we are so well looked after here; my fear is that I will have forgotten how to look after myself when our flats are actually ready to move into next week or sometime thereafter). When we came into the reception area there was a group of around ten guys checking in to the hotel. Some of them were quite young and my first thought was ‘I hope they are not going to be up all night partying – well at least not without inviting us’. Guna Raj, approached us with a huge smile and the friendliest greeting and inquired of Wally, as is the obligatory Nepali numero uno question, ‘Where are you from?’ He was delighted that his intuition was correct – Wally is from the Philippines and he had studied at uni there and had recognised a logo on her T-shirt. They chatted away merrily about the great features of the Philippines. From then we became part of the group. A very tall man, Hari Raj, introduced himself to me with a very hearty firm handshake, and almost immediately detected I was from Australia (I have to stop saying G’day maaaaaaate!!!! or was it the handshake – my Dad always told me to shake hands like you mean it)..........Hari explained that he is/was a good friend of our beloved late Fred Hollows and is a board member of the Fred Hollow’s Foundation here and for his full time job he is an artist. We met the rest of the group, many who are journalists (by this time I was thinking a ‘party’ would be most enjoyable with some of them).......and another two luvly guys, Madan Krishna – who also introduced himself as ‘an artist’ and Uttam. Uttam happens to be the founder and director of the Samata Niketan Foundation – an amazing philanthropist who is justly very proud of his organisation (you can Google Samata) that, among other super projects, builds schools in areas where they have determined there is an extraordinarily high need (which, in my opinion, could just about cover the whole of Nepal). They were all here for the opening of a school that the foundation has built – an amazing bamboo school for children just on the outskirts of Bhairawa. With much gusto we were invited to the opening to be held the following morning and after confirming that there was plenty of room in the vehicles for us to get a lift to the site, we accepted with great appreciation.

With enthusiastic ‘look forward to you joining us tomorrow’ they all went on their way. Wally and I were discussing what time we would meet when Ashish, the sensational manager of our hotel, approached and asked if we knew who those people were. Well we knew as much as we had been told but please tell us more. Well Uttam is one of the most respected philanthropists in Nepal and Ashish went on to tell us more about the foundation borne from Uttam’s dream to offer educational opportunities for those children most in need. Ashish then told us that Guna Raj is one of Nepal’s most highly respected journalists and Hari Raj and Madan Krishna are probably the two most famous people in Nepal – a double comedy act known as Ma-Ha Jodi (another Google) and also very well known for their philanthropic work. Ashish assured us we were in for a great day with them but for us to be prepared for everybody following them around because these guys are REALLY famous. And he was absolutely one hundred percent correct.

Now as most of you know, I have very little time for people who dine out on their fame, those who think their substance is measured by their level of authority or position or title, and those who rave about their wealth and even less time for those who THINK they are any of the above. However, these guys are in a league of their own – we were so impressed by their humility and lack of inflated ego...........they could have been any ‘Joe normal’ just hanging out in the same hotel and happy to have two ordinary education volunteer chicks (OK one old chook and one chick) in their company.

Unbelievably throughout the night monsoonal rain at its best (and the only decent monsoon we’ve had to relieve the 40+ degrees heat since we have been here) pelted Bhairawa until the mud puddles were knee deep in places – well at least ankle deep. Not deterred the valiant group met, as arranged, in the reception area around 7:30ish = 8:30ish (Nepali time is always at least an hour after scheduled time). The decision was made to meet up with another member of the party for breakfast, who was staying in a hotel around the corner. As we walked to the other hotel Ashish’s predictions took shape – every person stopped to stare and make comments and this time it wasn’t about us. Some of the young guys in the streets came to shake hands with Hari and Mandan and they were very happy to stroll along and take the time to stop and greet every person who wanted a moment of their time. No probs with request for photos with their adoring fans either and as the journos took the ‘paparazzi’ shots there was not one complaint, demand or camera covering attempt from these two amazing characters. The only complaint was from me – I told them they were on our turf and ‘stealing our thunder’ which made them both laugh – now there is a great deal of satisfaction in making two world famous comedians laugh – so I was happy to take my place in the entourage for the rest of the day.

During breakfast we met with a fabulous doctor and his stunningly beautiful wife and three glorious children. He is the major benefactor of Samata and as we were to learn later, one of the richest men in Nepal (thus the body-guard and police squad travelling with him). The doctor and his family welcomed us as though we were part of his family. They were to be the guests of honour along with Hari, Madan and Uttam at the opening. Many of the other people enjoying breakfast in the hotel were stunned to be so close to their comedian idols and came to simply have a chat with them about what they were doing in Bhairawa. One young girl asked if they would mind having a photo taken with her because this was her birthday.........not only did they oblige but supplied her with special biscuits which they fed her while the journos snapped away. She said this was the happiest day of her life and they laughed as they told her that they hoped her expectations would be much higher than being fed biscuits by two simple blokes (I don’t think they used the word blokes but the Nepali equivalent).

After breakfast it was time (actually past time) to head to the school for the celebrations. Sometimes – actually most times –it takes a little (well actually a lot) of discussion time to sort out the fine details of practicalities and logistics here in Nepal.........nevertheless we were all eventually bundled into cars and off we went. Wally and I arrived way ahead of the rest and were ushered through the guard of honour assembled at the school as though we were the main guests. Despite our protestations that we were invited along as the no-name friends of the guests of honour we were showered with flowers and taken to the grand stage like royal (see piccie of Wally taking up the first seat).Unfortunately, there was a minor accident along the way involving the real guests of honour and when they arrived about forty-five minutes later Wally and I had accepted almost all the garlands of flowers and special seats on the stage. Miraculously more flowers arrived and the rest of the group received their fair share too. There trip to the stage took some time as they waded through the mud and addressed their adoring crowd until they had spoken to almost everybody individually. Nevertheless, the official opening ceremony took place with mercifully, a shortened version of the hours of speeches that are traditional at these functions. The main messages from these guys were based on their own stories – how they were poor kids from distant villages who worked hard and followed their dreams. Their encouragement to the kids to study hard and become honest citizens was mesmerising. No swollen-head ‘look at how wonderful I am’ talk from this group of inspiring humanitarians.

After the rains here the sun and humidity come with a vengeance. Despite that oppressive atmosphere these guys shook hands and signed papers, DVDs, hands and anything else the people, especially the children, wanted signed until every last child had been touched. They were certainly in no hurry to rush through this part of the day despite their tight schedule.

Some of them had not been to Lumbini – the birthplace of Buddha just 25 kilometres from Bhairawa. ‘You will join us won’t you’ said Guna Raj – Wally and I took almost a nano-second to say absolutely yes – as long as there is room for us in the vehicles. No problems the young journos will travel in the back of the pickup and you will travel inside (with the air-con)...........deal done. The trip went so quickly as we discussed ‘realities’ with Guna Raj and the fabulous Ratan (a Nepali businessman based in Texas and another main benefactor of Samata) – fascinating stuff and I think we learned more about Nepal and Nepalis during that journey than through any of the information provided by our organisation.

Lumbini was amazing – again the ‘stars of the show’ were swamped by people who were overwhelmed that their icons were happy to wander around among them with no fuss. (That’s Hari sitting on my knee at the entrance to Lumbini and Guna Raj giggling across the way). In fact these guys sat (in the oppressive heat) at the peace avenue for over an hour so everybody who asked could have a photo taken with them while they cracked obviously hysterical jokes. What also impressed Wally and I was that every time they spoke in Nepali, they paused to translate so we could enjoy the fun too. Despite the humour they were clearly respectful of the fact that we were at a very reverent site and behaved accordingly as we entered the sacred site of the Maya Devi.

With Wally’s support, I had a very special experience of my own at the birthplace of Buddha – Janene and Sandy had given me some prayer flags before I left Australia – I was able to hang a set of them on the Bodhi tree where Buddha’s mother rested before she gave birth to him in the Maya Devi Temple. Whether you are a believer in a higher power or not if you can visit this site without being moved, I suggest you would have to have your pulse checked. Thank you Janene and Sandy for sharing such a momentous occasion.

The rest of the day was spent getting lost on the trip back – which in fact I think was more about boys playing games with the lead car taking some very dodgy roads just to see if the rest would follow - and they did. Lots of laughs and some more great knowledge sharing until we arrived back in Bhairawa. They were all due to catch a flight back to Kathmandu within the hour but insisted that we join them for dhal bhat and beer before they left. Another nano-second decision.

All too soon it was time to farewell new friends. I am an extremely fortunate person – I am blessed with an amazing son, a special Hunk, extraordinary friends waiting for me at home and now a whole new group of ‘real’ people have come into my life here. We swapped phone numbers, emails etc and as they packed themselves into the cars to head to the airport we, including some of the young journos, actually shed some tears. Opportunities to be in the company of such greatness (not because of their wealth or fame) but because of their simplicity, humanity and generosity come along very rarely. How fortunate I feel to have had that chance. Thank you all for being part of my journey.

I should say something about work - so here it is - ‘something about work’.

Stay well and khub kushi my wonderful friends.

Namaste and hugs from Bhairawa.

Marguerite

PS - Thank you for your comments on my blog – it’s wonderful to have your company and I would respond to your comments if only I could work out how!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Bhairawa or Bust

Emotional farewells with my neighbourhood soccer players complete, the five of us Rupandehi pioneer volunteers (Wally, Akke Antje, Sandy, Aniceto and I – along with Gopal from the VSO Nepal program office) set off from Kathmandu on our journey to Bhairawa. With the mini-bus loaded past the rafters – can you believe they tried (but failed) to pack the purple tool kit on the roof Alex – we were all delighted to see the dusty potholed roads of Kathmandu fade into the distance. Within an hour the landscape had transformed into some of the most spectacular scenery I have ever seen (still not in the same league as the winter wonderland of Yellowstone though Gwen). Unfortunately, the photos do not do the countryside justice because they are taken through the window of the moving vehicle.

There are some fairly narrow roads where traffic has to back up to allow the vehicle travelling on the opposite side of the road to manoeuvre the tight corners (like the ones you lay your motorcycle into at 200ks Andy). However, the excitement of finally arriving in ‘our town’ overrode any fear of tipping over the edge – well not really but I’ll say that just so you can all stop worrying. Let’s just say it was an adventurous journey with extremely competent drivers (almost similar to you calibre Sir Geoffrey!!!!!!!!!).

We saw many amazing little villages carved into the sides of the mountains and were fascinated at how they could stay balanced there.......and thinking perhaps they won’t - long term. It’s fascinating how people just get about their business in such harsh conditions with little fuss and hardly notice the traffic until we stop and the ‘bideshis’ file in to the restaurant to take daal baht (yes Angi, more daal baht ). Delicious as it may be, there is always a moment of hesitation- after wiping the fly-blown plates and cutlery –just what price (and I’m not meaning rupees) might be paid for eating this tasty blend of rice, vegies and lentils...

We knew the trip was coming to an end (after around eight hours) when we could no longer see the hills. Despite our romantic postcard images of Nepal with the snow-capped mountains, Bhairawa is nothing like those images. Our town is located in the terai – the flatlands in the south of Nepal just six kilometres from the Indian border. There are apparently some beautiful areas in the terai. I’m wish I could report that Bhairawa is one of them but sadly is most certainly is not. I think we all had images of a quiet country village with some shrubbery, clear blue sky and fresh air. I’m confident my wonderful team buddies will be happy with me sharing (because we have all ‘admitted’ to our dismay as the bus slowed) we all had the same thought ‘please don’t let this be Bhairawa’. Bhairawa is in some respects a mini-version of Kathmandu. The traffic on the main road is manic (more work here for you and your team Inspector Neil), the air is polluted from the constant procession of buses and trucks travelling to and from India and the town is littered with rubbish (perhaps not quite as seriously as Kathmandu) and it stinks – not the whole town, just most of it (can you imagine with my sensitive nose Jordan and Hunk – absolute torture). HOWEVER, there a many, many less feral dogs YAHOO!!!!!!!!!!!!! And the town is generally quiet at night.

The day we arrived it was around 40 degrees and the temperature has fluctuated between 35 and 45 over the past few weeks. (I know you’re saying ‘what a wimp’ Smiley but you wait –this is hotter than the Desh........even hotter than hell, so we’ve been told by someone who I’m sure has already been there!!!!). We were fortunate to be accommodated in a hotel with air-conditioning (which actually works much more efficiently than that ‘state of the art’ piece of cr## in the AH&A Secretariat – perhaps it would more cost effective to have that unit in the office successfully repaired if we sent a technician from Nepal – send me the specs Adrian and I’ll make some enquiries!!!!!!!!!!). Anyway, to cut a long story short (yeah, as if that’s ever going to happen – I hear you Poddies) Wally and I are still waiting for our flats to be complete (around three weeks – so translated into Nepali time that should be just as we are packing up to leave) so we are still living out of suitcases (mine still smelling like a beautiful garden thanx Annie and Jo) in the hotel. Aniceto has taken up residence in a very comfie bungalow in the beautiful presbytery grounds at the Catholic Church surrounded by a magnificent garden (complete with snakes, frogs, mongoose and fabulous birds – which reminds me thanx Dianne for TLC for me and my plants). This little oasis is where we now hold happy hour every Friday arvo with Father Sylvester and the sensational sisters from the convent just across the way. So if that’s the only Aussie suggestion that is successful during this post, I feel like I have made a significant contribution to the development of Nepal, because it is a VERY happy hour or three. Waltergator, can you send me my five hundred takka from the Nutella jar – that’s worth a fortune here............just kidding you hold on to it for your next trip to Bangladesh buddy. Akke Antje and Sandy are sharing a beaut cottage style house a little out of the main town area – the surrounding fields actually make you feel like you are in the countryside. They’ve worked sooooooooooo hard in the stinking heat to get set up and we are going to have a house warming in a couple of weeks.

With regard to our project we have made some major progress with almost having the twelve schools we will be working with finalised.............we’re just up to the third list now – so sometime in the next few months we should be on track. For three days in a row, we bicycled to the schools we thought we would be working with - some of which were approximately 20 kilometres round trip. No great challenge for us HI girls hey Annie, Sandy, Debra, Janene, Jo, Fran and Kathy – except for those temperatures mentioned above.................we were all so sunburnt and despite the heat would have luuuuuuuuuved the coffee and chat with both HIers and GOWers. (I have to stop torturing myself, I just finished Fran’s last coffee bag the other day – I managed two cups out of each one – the coffee here is like muddy water – geez, maybe it is actually muddy water). But I do have the fanciest coasters for my cup to sit on, so the coffee tastes better – with thanx Glor. I’ve also taken up drinking lassi, after my fab friend Paul (the truck hitting survivor Paul in India) described in mouth-watering detail his experiences with lassis – so it will be his fault when I come home looking like a sumo wrestler.

Oh, I just realised I got off the subject of work. Perhaps that’s because we are not settled in to a routine or an office yet and with the lack of co-operation from the responsible parties, it’s unlikely to happen before the next World Cup is played. So I am going to set up my office at home (hopefully before the next World Cup) and do all my admin from there and join the teachers in their field work. It was super spending time with the teachers and the kids. They were all sooooooo happy to see us. Unlike.....................Oops best not go there – private email stuff to you all!!!!!!!!!!!!!

We are starting to make some great friends and acquaintances in the town and the guys in the hotel are looking after us so well. Nothing is too much trouble and they have helped us with getting to know our way around, how to bargain and making sure we are safe. The local shop keepers greet us enthusiastically and we are all feeling a little more ‘connected’ to this unattractive town.

Oh and before I go, Miracles happen, THERE IS A POOL IN BHAIRAWA, well only a 20km ride down the road on a 50 year old rusty bus carrying three times as many passengers as it should, in the 45 degree heat, unmentionable smells aboard included free of charge. We swam in the luke warm water for hours - BLISS. I am now the unofficial Nepali freestyle champion. And thanks to Midgie and Jackie my bathers (and some other ‘did I really need to pack that stuffs’) are on the way direct from the FM bag.

I’m trying to get this posted while I have reasonable access to the net so please excuse typos, offensive cynicisms and anything that doesn’t make sense.

Stay well and kushi lago my wonderful friends.

Namaste and hugs from Kathmandu.

Marguerite

PS – You must try to stay interested in my blog – my next one is about a chance ‘brush’ with the most famous comedians in Nepali.............what an amazing day!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm Going to Kathmandu Take II

I’ve had a diverse range of responses regarding my decision to return to Nepal, but the majority are summed up in one line from one of my favourite singers ‘I was stunned but not surprised – if you know what I mean’. And I absolutely know what you mean my wonderful Poddie Jane – because that’s fairly much how I felt. I want to add again that the support you have all offered me has been overwhelming and I am very grateful.

Jordan and Bruce took me to the airport – somewhat a case of déjà vu. Except this time I had only one twelve kilo overweight suitcase (the $980 bag is still safely in the care of Midgie and Jackie and has become affectionately – or not – known as the f**king Melbourne bag). As I began my rehearsed plea with the wonderful check-in chick at Qantas, she commented on my fabulous perfume...........I digressed from my begging for excess luggage fee waiver to tell her the story (which some of you already know) about how my ex-husband (who was, as we were speaking, parking the car and had come to farewell me for the second time – she joked ‘is that because he wants to make sure you actually leave’ and we all laughed) bought this perfume by mistake some fifteen years ago and, despite me chastising him for being so absent minded, I received so many compliments I have been buying it ever since. She made a note that it is Knowing by Estee Lauder and said she will be asking for it for her next gift. I realised I was half way through my plea and she had already weighed my luggage, tagged it with a Priority Business Class label and booked it via international link through Melbourne, Bangkok and onto Kathmandu. I would only have to book my seat with Thai for the international flights when I got to Melbourne. She also gave me a priority pass to go through the express lane in customs in Melbourne. Jordan and I looked at each other with a mixture of relief, joy and disbelief thanked the awesome luvy profusely and promised to buy her some Knowing on my way back to Australia in 2012. As we were celebrating Bruce approached to see what all the commotion was about and I told him the perfume story and he politely said to this glorious girl ‘does that help you understand why I have come to make sure she leaves’....... So there was a lot of light heartedness to take the edge of what had been a few very arduous weeks. Nevertheless, saying farewell to loved ones, especially a remarkable son and the extraordinarily generous Hunk, was always going to be emotional – and it was!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Not having to collect my luggage in Melbourne was such a relief and I had my boarding pass within minutes and was checked through security and customs in plenty of time to have a decent coffee – unfortunately no great GOW or HI buddy company though – before we boarded for Bangkok. I was in such good spirits, I wasn’t the slightest bit concerned if there was a dear old lady in my seat and was almost tempted to line-dance in the aisles when I realised that the plane was only half full and I had a whole row of seats to myself. By this time it was midnight and as soon as the aircraft lights were dimmed, I stretched out over the three seats and slept for four hours. Also managed to watch a really great chick flick – I just hope I can remember the name of it before the end of this chat so you can go and see it Dawnie.

The stop-over in Bangkok was only four hours and I spent one and a half of those in the massage spa (forever grateful for that hint Tuula). Oh and I have to say, I think I single-handedly changed the attitude of the security officers in Bangkok airport. You may remember last time I checked through security in Bangkok, one of the female officers was so rude to me, I brought her brusqueness to the attention of one of the supervisors. Well this time I swear they have all been to happy face tutoring and were sooooooooooooooo polite I thought I was in a different airport. Another decent cup of coffee (still alas no GOW or HI company) and it was time to board for the Kat........ Bonus, this big bird was only half full too – another whole row to myself – a half decent pasta meal (not even close to the exquisite cuisine of Dr Paul, Mon Ami or Dawnie though) another snooze, time to refresh the ‘paint job’ (yeah! you and me Alex) and three and a half hours later, breathtaking views of the Himalayas and touchdown Kathmandu.

The ‘other time’ I arrived in Kathmandu it took about an hour and a half for my suitcase to arrive on the carousel. This time it was there within twenty minutes, being checked over by a huge Alsatian drug-detector. When the guard looked at my forlorn expression, (memories of Dhaka airport come to mind Smiley Sis) I wanted to explain to him that it wasn’t because I was concerned about the dog finding drugs or prohibited goods in my bag, but that I am actually terrified of dogs................(I promise I’ll go for therapy Midgie and ‘Arraine). The last time a four legged drug detector – a beagle of all creatures – bailed me up with my bag (at Melbourne airport) it was because I had a half eaten toasted cheese sandwich in one of the secret pockets. Thank goodness he found it; otherwise it could have still been there.

VSO staff had arranged for a taxi to collect me and transport me to the Annual Volunteer Conference being held at Godavari Village about a one hour drive from Kathmandu. It is in a picturesque, peaceful and unpolluted valley (see the piccies) and was such a pleasant way to ease back into Nepal. The grounds and gardens are magnificent – and I couldn’t help but think of my beloved Lucie, Gerdie, Gloria, Lynne, Dianne, Dolores and all my other keen gardening friends. The conference was suitably low-key and a great opportunity to re-acquaint with my group (my super friend Wally had made me a grand welcome back sign) and also to get to know the other volunteers who have been in Nepal for varying lengths of time, with fascinating stories to tell (yes my Poddies, I did let them get a word in) and extraordinary experiences and skills to share. On the last night we had a fun party and while Tiffany (from the UK) won the talent contest with her sensational belly-dancing, the National Capital Bootscooters were well-represented (in my opinion!!!!!!!!!!!!).

On Thursday, although we thought we were going to Pokhara for a meeting among all the education volunteers, we instead returned to Kathmandu because it was more convenient for all the participants. It was another valuable opportunity to share skills and learn so much from a group of highly professional and talented educators. We also gained further information about the process for our very exciting (if somewhat ambitious or daunting) project. Meanwhile, in the company of friends, particularly Sandy and Wally, I have spent a little more time exploring the previously dreaded Kathmandu and again doing my bit to assist with the tragic state of the economy. I think it is a tad cleaner (somebody must have shipped in a considerable number of rubber gloves Gladdie)............and the city seems a little (just a little) less polluted and the traffic more organised – did you send some of your guys over here Sir Geoffrey and Inspector Neil. When Sandy and I walked through Durbar Square the other day I actually enjoyed it more for what it is – amazing, run-down maybe, but nonetheless amazing architecture. The feral dogs are still enjoying running the show but I’m happy to say I am bed-bug bite free. And I have resolved my issues with the ‘powers that be’.

I would be bullshipping (nothing unusual.......... I hear you Adrian) if I said I wasn’t just a smidgen nervous about returning to Nepal. This is a challenging post, however, I have returned with renewed vigour and know that with all your support and encouragement we will make this a successful ‘mission’ (if you choose to accept it – for the winning piece of pie, what is that quote from Waltergator?) . On Wednesday we (the Rupandehi cluster education volunteers) leave for Bhairawa. We are all very excited to be heading off to do the job we came here to do. At the risk of repeating myself – bring it on!!!!!!!!!!! I look forward to sharing the next chapter with you. Thank you all again for your TLC.

Stay well and kushi lago my wonderful friends.

Namaste and hugs from Kathmandu.

Marguerite

PS Beautiful Ali – I have shared (under threat of a fate worse than death if they don’t return it to me) Sky Burial with several of the other volunteers and they luv the book. Humungus thanx again for such a great pressie.

PPS Annie and Jo – I am still living out of my suitcase so you know I am reminded of you every day – the smelly treats are fabulous.............Fran, I am sooooooooooooo enjoying the coffee bags - can you believe I get two cups out of each bag – fabulous........and I place my cuppa each morning on the most exquisite coasters in Nepal Glor.............Sandy and Janene the flags are still keeping me flying high......

Interesting Times

The recent civil unrest in Kathmandu (and other parts of Nepal) provided, for some of us, an interesting insight into the way political differences in Nepal play out. I make no claims to being a political pundit and I will leave you to find out what the political history and current status is in Nepal – or you could ring Waltergator, M2 or Paul (three of the most politically savvy people I know). When the political rallies and demonstrations are being held, there is widespread disruption and the possibility of violence. While we, as foreigners, are not specifically targeted we are advised to steer clear of the demonstrations and political rallies. In fact for two weeks we were advised to stay indoors for most of the day except for when the curfew was lifted for the shops to be open from 6-8 in the morning and again from 6-8 in the evening. Demonstrations and bandhs (strikes) sometimes occur without notice and can cause major traffic turmoil and shut down all public transport as well as shops (no good for you Midgie). Shortages of essential supplies can occur with limited notice (we could all head to ‘Arraine’s place – she has the most well-stocked pantry I have ever seen). Electrical black- outs (or load shedding) periods are regular occurrences. During the latest demonstrations we were in ‘lock-down’ for approximately 20 hours from 24. Again, I want to stress that we were in no immediate danger, however, the atmosphere can be a tad unnerving.

There are plenty of bonuses though – the pollution level drops enough to be able to see the picturesque surrounding mountains, the constant traffic noise stops, you can’t go anywhere to spend too much money and the guys at the guest house cook great meals. There are also many idle hours to catch up on Nepali homework (as if) and the latest book – my new favourite author is Mavis Cheek.

In addition to the political instability, I had some issues with the management style of some of the ‘powers that be’ (nothing new there I hear you say Poddies). I was also still scratching from the bed-bug bights and suffering from lack of sleep (mainly because of the barking dogs).

On top of those trials and tribulations there were some family matters going on back in Aus (don’t worry – nothing wrong with Jordan or Bruce) and I was offered a ticket home – this time not for ‘disciplinary’ reasons but to have some time with my family and friends. Even though I was expected to return to Nepal, I came home in a rather tender state of mind, and thinking that perhaps Nepal just wasn’t meant to be!!!!

In the last two weeks, in addition to spending time with my family, especially with the remarkable Jordan, I have had the opportunity to be surrounded by my exquisite friends including : Midgie and Jackie who know how to do ‘girlie’ stuff with such pizzazz (no shops with shutters down in that city of Melbourne) : Mon Ami and Dr Paul met me at the airport in Canberra and I shared their fabulous meals, family and walks on several occasions.........the Canberra autumn held out to welcome me back : special sessions at the gym (and coffee shop and Delissio –suitable rewards for sessions at the gym) with the sensational Fran, Debra, Annie, Jo, Anji, Kathy, Sandy and Janene : fabulous times with Dawnie, Carlie, Phil and Alex and a special girls day out with Dawnie, Faye and Pam : lunch, coffee and GOWing with M2, Tuula and Lesley (what a team) : the best freshly ground coffee and long chats with Linda and Laura : less flash coffee but equally as special chats with Andy and Bruce. I’ve also had amazing support and messages from across the miles from the cherished ‘Arraine, Paul, Wally, Zen, Debbie, Sandy, Smiley Sis, Sweet Lips, Gloria, Dianne, WW, Susie Q, Pauline, my Poddies and other super friends from the A H&A Secretariat. I wish I could find some better words than extremely grateful to express how I feel about being blessed with the most incredible network of friends in the universe. I just hope you all know how much I appreciate your TLC. Thank you all for your encouragement, patience, words of wisdom, understanding and ‘being there’.

Tonight (Sunday 23rd May) I fly out to return to my placement in Nepal. Despite my initial decision to try to settle back into ‘life as we know it’ down under............. I now, more than ever, want to go to my post in Nepal and do the very best I can, even if that very best is seeing one more child have the opportunity to enter school.

As for the dear old lady sitting in my seat on the plane, bed-bugs, sh##y management, ferral dogs, pollution, civil unrest, monsoons, and 43 degree heat....................BRING IT ALL ON!!!!!! I’M READY.........................they have no idea who I have supporting me on my ‘mission’ . Please stay tuned.

Stay well and khub kushi my wonderful friends.

Namaste and hugs from Melbourne in transit to Nepal.

Marguerite

The picces for Surviving Kathmandu...........

Surviving Kathmandu and other Katastrophes

The pleasant guest house the fifteen of us new volunteers are staying in for some of the eight weeks of in-country-training is situated in the northern ‘burbs’ of Kathmandu – that is if there is actually any structure to this crazy city. Surviving Kathmandu is similar to surviving the cyclic patterns of the H & A Secretariat, unrealistic expectations and no changes to processes!!! Nevertheless, just like my fellow CO back home, we are all trying to ‘rise to the challenges’ here in Nepal.

I’m no longer resentful about the dear old lady who claimed my seat on the flight from Bangkok – you can’t see the mountains anyway as you fly into Kathmandu or as you walk around this scrambled city most of the time because of the pollution. I thought I’d seen ‘it all’ in Dhaka but I think I prefer the madness of the rickshaws to the peril of the motorcycles and taxis – I think there are jobs here for you Andy and Sir Geoffrey to teach these people how to safely ride motor cycles and drive cars and which side of the road they should drive on. And after you fix this smozzle, you could visit Paul, my Aussie friend who is posted to Bhubaneswar in India where he unfortunately had an unpleasant encounter with a truck – miraculously he survived with ‘only 3 staples and 16 stitches in the wound to his head’ (his words). As he is now the proud owner of a new Enfield he is re-writing the road rules for his area – if only he could find some current ones his task might be a tad easier!!

For those of you who have been to Kathmandu and luved it, I wish I could share your sentiments. The potential is evident - this city (and I’m sure this country) is a tourist gold mine (even more so than it is now) just waiting to explode and at least have some impact on the distressed economic situation here. However, mainly due to the political unrest, this city is strewn with piles of garbage, ferral dogs (yep my fear lives on ‘Arraine and Midgie), hazardous traffic and pollution that sticks to your eyeballs as well as your lungs – we could use a few of those new vaccies like yours WW to try and clean this place up.

Despite that bleak picture, the laundry is hung in order, and the people are incredible, getting about their business with no fuss and smiles we should be able to package and send to those security people at Bangkok airport and any other lemon-sucking people we unfortunately encounter in our lives. The poverty here is as desperate and heartbreaking as the Desh, but there is an entrenched acceptance of fatalism here that is mind-boggling. If I could adopt the same acceptance to learning a new language I could be the next most sought after worldwide multi-lingual expert. Again, I am in awe of those of you – Jordan, WW, Mon Ami, Dr Paul (engineering is another language isn’t it) and Mr Don’t Worry – who find learning a second language stress free.

I am clearly a student with special needs when it comes to learning a second language (OK, and IT Evahn) but is it not unfair that I also seem to be being punished for my lack of respect for those in authority by having very unpleasant experiences with language school principals - those of you who followed my time in the Desh will remember my ‘encounter’ there. Well now the guy who is ‘in charge’ of our in-country-training (well he was until we arrived); expressed some distasteful comments about Australians and Americans. My response almost had me sent home – and that’s no joking – I was told ‘return to class or we can have a return ticket arranged for you next week’ (which in hindsight might have been the better option). Because of my compliant nature (I hear you all in the Secretariat and if that’s my Poddies laughing the loudest, I’m shattered) I returned to suffer the consequences – the principal and I hugged and ‘made up’ and thus far he has not erred again. In actual fact we danced around each other for days and I still haven’t learned any more Nepali than I knew before I quit class, but I think he now knows a little Bangla and how to line-dance Aus style (special thanks to all my boot-scooting pals).

Most of this scene was played out in the more picturesque (but still seriously polluted and ferral dog bothered) countryside township of Banepa where the accommodation is a bed-bug infested prison like building that had more than just this menacing Aussie complaining. I hear some of you saying ‘complaining – what’s new?’ but let me be honest my amazing friends and share with you that being covered in bed- bug bights (yep that’s a lot of bites my Inspector friends) is right up there when it comes to unpleasant experiences. Fortunately we are in the hands of fabulous doctors (one of whom several of us would gladly suffer more medical conditions that required his attention) and I was dosed up with some ‘big-gun’ anti-histamines. To assist with my recovery – OK, my emotional state - I also joined some of the others at early morning yoga class and walked/shuffled (where were you Waltergator) the surrounding hillsides – not a patch on sessions with my HI friends (thank you all for your awesome messages) although we did go to the local tea-house after yoga – where it became even more apparent that I was the problem child of language class with all the others holding fluent conversations with the locals. I would have given my right arm to have been chatting with my GOWers just to prove that I am actually an articulate conversationalist (is that you saying bullshipper, Adrian.........).

As you will have realised, I have made some extraordinary friends and we are banding together to meet the challenges – admittedly some of the others much more competently than I am. We’ve cruised the shops in Thamel and done our bit for the local economy there, eaten exquisite food (not quite as exquisite as Cafe de Dawnie’s), explored Durbar Square (how I would luv to see that place as it appears in the postcards and not the sad run-down ruins that I see), made friends in the ‘hood – especially with the kids who play soccer on the cement patch below our balcony. Actually, I was almost deported after an incident there too!!!! Quite innocently, I gave them a new soccer ball because the one they were playing with had obviously seen better days. When the big kids took over and wouldn’t let the little ones play with the new ball the commotion in the street was pointed directly at the balcony. So down I went to see what Australia was being blamed for now - after a conversation (in English) with one of the older neighbourhood guys, situ easy fixed, now both groups have a ball, each labelled for their groups.........the early flight home postponed again (for now).

As I try to upload this to my blog, most of you will be aware of the current civil unrest here in Nepal. That issue is another whole blog, but I just want to reassure you that we are safely accommodated back in the more pleasant guest house in Kathmandu. Thank you all for your emails, sms (no more worrying M2), facebook chat, Skype etc – ekdam ramro.......................excellent and so appreciated.

I have been asked to keep the post to manageable size for those who are unable to work up flex time to take time out to read my blogs. I hope I have achieved that and for those of you who are bored to snores at this point – remember the care fact = zero (just kidding –the one thing I never want read out in my eulogy is that I bored you.........pleeeeeeeeeeeeeease just make up lots of illicit stuff).

I miss you all for you own special place in my chain of friendship and look forward to hearing all your news – just about to read yours now Lorraine......... Stay well and khub kushi my wonderful friends.

Namaste and hugs from Kathmandu
Marguerite

PS – Unedited because I am ‘racing’ with the power and may not be able to include any piccies but will post ASAP and will ask for some assistance with the layout!!!!

Postscript: GO RAIDERS!!!!!

'I'm going to Kathmandu'

I know for some of you, my journey to Nepal has been a long time coming. Thanx to you all, I am now safely in Kathmandu. Of course I wouldn’t be here without the encouragement and support of each and every one of my amazing friends, especially my wonderful son.

I also know that my long suffering Poddies, Jane, Mr Mc and Auntie Al , as well as the GPs are probably stunned at the increase in work productivity since my departure. And Sharron, Pierre and Waltergator, I am delighted to take full credit for that due to my constantly distracting them before I left........however, I draw the line at taking any responsibility for the situation in the ‘noisy’ pod and wouldn’t want to mention any names but I’m assuming Adrian and Mick are still bossing, oops, I mean looking after, Pauline and M2 (I’m aware Lynne ‘escaped’ a few weeks ago). And to all of you, my special friends and colleagues at the Secretariat , I hope you are enjoying the peace and quiet. I want to thank you all so much for the perfect farewell gifts – I am actually using the head torch now, as the power is out (and yes Adrian I do look like a goose and Midgie if you ever show those photos that are proof of that to anybody, I’ll have to shred you). At least I can see and I still fancy the idea of becoming a doctor...............yeah, I hear you, more likely a miner!!!!! And the supersonic hand torch is fantastic for lighting up the alleyways when I’m stumbling my way home from the pub (as if!!!!!!!!!!). Seriously though, so thoughtful and appreciated, as was the happy hour farewell celebration (I hope there are still a few coins in the Nutella jar Waltergator) – and what a special touch Mr Mc and Elizabeth organising to play ‘I’m going to Kathmandu’.

The last couple of weeks preparing for departure went fairly much according to plan after the hiccup with the minor wrist operation. I can’t remember whether the surgeon was wearing a head torch or not but my wrist has fully recovered - thank you for all your good wishes (I hope your recovery is as swift Lesley). I’m not sure I would have been as organised without Jordan helping me ‘stay on track’ - no easy task with all the fabulous coffee dates, lunches, dinners and parties. For all of you who organised and participated in those celebrations – the fanciest restaurant in town (you know where that is Alex), GOW luncheons, Lorraine and Judith coffee meeting, my Gym Gal Gang dinner as well as an awesome outdoor coffee session at HI with Annie, Jo, Kathy, Janene, Fran, Sandy and Debra, many happy hours with Dawnie, Glor, Andy , Bruce and Dianne as well as afternoon tea with my boot-scooters – long phone calls with Susie Q, Stuart, Gwen and WW, what fabulous times...... I will treasure the memories always. The risk of naming names is that there is always the possibility of leaving somebody out and offending...............if I have done that, can we blame it on the Kathmandu pollution and I will ‘catch you up’.

After an emotional farewell with Jordan and Bruce at Canberra airport, I flew to Melbourne to spend a couple of days with friends – thank you Sir Geoffrey, my Sergeant’s stripes are now safely sewn on to my Australian T-Shirt – can you send me a cap so people in the ‘hood can start taking me seriously. Midgie and I flew on to Launceston to have a few days with ‘Arraine. We were reprimanded by the hostie for chatting during the safety demonstration – I apologised to her, explaining that we had a very critical conference to attend in Launceston and were running out of time for preparing our strategic plan (just kidding!!!). What a fabulous time we enjoyed – except for the Easter egg treasure hunt. Even though I have fully recovered from this particular event, I do have to ‘get this off my chest’. Julie and Ali, two of ‘Arraine’s Tassie friends came along to join in the fun. Now ‘Arraine and I have been friends for a bazillion years (well at least 20) and she is one of the most honest people I know. But I think she gave the others maps or clues because I was the only one who didn’t find a single egg or chicken and had to resort to stealing from the others. I can hear you saying ‘build a bridge’ Midgie – that’s only because you found (with the help of your map) enough chocolate chickens to hold a chook conference .................geez did I say I had recovered??? – maybe I have a little more work to do on that ‘I didn’t find one egg or chicken’ issue!!!!!!!!!!!!

Midgie, ‘Arraine and I flew back to Melbourne on Saturday – and I didn’t mention the Easter egg hunt once – and we had a fond farewell night at the Holiday Inn near the airport – almost added to the list of places ‘please don’t come back’ . Many, many laughs, much bullshipping, reminiscing and of course a few (well maybe more than a few) tears. Nevertheless, some of the tension was relieved when Midgie was repacking her bags and discovered some Easter eggs covered in knitted chicken cosies (don’t worry, I’ll send a picture) – I’m actually saving mine for next year’s Easter egg hunt – OK, I’ll book for therapy!!! Dhana (or Mr Don’t Worry as some of us know him) one of my best friends from Bangladesh is currently studying at Latrobe University in Melbourne. He met up with us on Sunday and we all spent a fabulous day in PJ O’Reilly’s. Jackie (Midgie’s glorious daughter) also joined us at the airport to wait for my 0300 flight.

We decided to get my bags booked in as soon as the check-in opened. I had been ‘negotiating’ with Thai Airways for weeks before my departure to waive the excess fee for an extra 20 kilos of luggage – as most of you know, I will not travel anywhere without my tool kit – well there was an agreement to waive some of it right up until I put the extra bag on the belt. The details of what followed are another blog so here are the main points – that will cost you $950 madam – are you kidding? – well you can put another three kilos from this bag into your first bag and we will waive that fee – how kind of you. Thank goodness for Jackie – she very calmly helped me wheel the bags away and repack before we decided that she and Midgie would take the second bag home with them and have it freighted to Nepal for me. At least the generous (not) Thai Manager let me jump the queue to re-check in my ‘three kilo fee waivered’ bag. After that little fiasco we decided we should take coffee (in Nepal, as in Bangladesh you take, not have, coffee). While we were waiting for our coffee, a woman walked past and spilt her whole cup of coffee over my bag – she promptly turned around and went back to the counter to demand another cup of coffee. I even more promptly walked over to her, tapped her on the shoulder and asked her if she could care less that she had just spilt her coffee all over my luggage – and the reality was that, no she didn’t. Midgie and Jackie came to the rescue – not because of the risk of me harming the stupid women – but to take the bag home with them and clean it and now they are kindly re-arranging the contents of the bag and in due course they will send them.

The flight from Melbourne to Bangkok was comfie and apart from watching Sandra Bullock’s Academy winning performance, I managed to sleep most of the journey. The six hour wait in Bangkok passed very quickly after two hours of massage (what a great tip that was Tuula), a couple of half decent coffees and a little duty free shopping. The security people at Bangkok airport have all had plastic surgery to remove the smiles from their faces but check-in was relatively easy because my baggage was already booked directly through from Melbourne to Kathmandu. However, when I got on the plane there was a woman sitting in my seat and she refused to get out. Now, I know this woman had no idea I hadn’t found any eggs in the Easter egg hunt and that the Manager at Thai Airways in Melbourne had wanted to charge me $950 for excess luggage, and that some idiotic woman had spilt a cup of coffee all over my luggage, and that I was leaving my fabulous son and friends for a very long time and my iPod battery was running low, but I swear the only reason I didn’t physically eject her from the seat myself was that she was about 90 years of age. Her son explained that she wanted to sit next to the window. I told him not to worry; I would be happy sitting in the aisle seat and miss seeing the Himalayas from the air as we flew into Nepal –ARGHH!!!! I consoled myself with the wonderful book Ali gave me – awesome, thank you Ali. There was one minor ‘moment’ - as you would know the special dietary meals are delivered to seat numbers rather than actual people and when my meal arrived at the same time as ‘the son’s’, I was so tempted to have a few mouthfuls of the delicious looking dhal but realised I’ll be eating that every day for the next two years. The dear old lady was so pleased when I handed it over I thought she was going to give me back my seat. My meal was delicious anyway and the flight was only about three and a half hours.

Arriving in Kathmandu was a bit of a non-event – although I’m sure the dear old lady in my seat enjoyed the view. Slipping through customs and immigration was no fuss – apart from greeting the officers with Namaste, I decided to stick to English rather than use the four other words of Nepali I knew to try and avoid the hug faux pas I made in Dhakka that most of you are familiar with. After the hour long wait for my bag to arrive on the carousal, Jeeven, from VSO Nepal, met me in the airport grounds where I was already choking on the polluted air. We waited for the other volunteers, five from the Philippines (who had actually been on the same flight as me from Bangkok) - and John, from Uganda and Caroline, from Kenya to arrive. After introductions, packing ourselves and luggage into two mini-vans we were ‘on our way to Kathmandu’.

During this drive I realised time does not provide a buffer for the shock of seeing poverty in all its rawness. Kathmandu is similar in many ways, only on a smaller scale, to Dhakka, the shanties, the poorest of the poor, the crazy traffic (minus the thousands of rickshaws – which means I may have less chance of being run over by one on this trip), the desolation and the dust. The population density is much less, however, I think the pollution in Kathmandu is worse than Dhaka – it’s a huge challenge to walk around and enjoy the treasures that are on offer here. Nevertheless, it is happening, so stay tuned. The people are wonderful and the children in the neighbourhood where we are staying in a guest house (upper level backpacker style) have already claimed the Aussie who can kick the soccer ball fairly impressively, as their bondhu (friend).

I realise this ‘chapter’ does not report very much about actually being in Nepal – I just wanted to share how grateful I am for your support, encouragement and patience in getting me here. I look forward to more yakking from Nepal.

Stay well and khub kushi my wonderful friends

Namaste and hugs from Kathmandu
Marguerite